Bouldering
Alderman
Den Lane
Running Hill Pits
Wimberry
Oven Stones
Duck Stones
Leading
Pots and Pans
Dovestones Lower
Den Lane
Running Hill Pits
Charnel Stones
Charnel Stones
Charnel Stones, the name itself seems to fill one with foreboding and a certain stench of death. Fortunately on a good day the crag is nothing like this and has a pleasant sunny aspect. There is a reasonable spread of routes with Wasteland providing a thought provoking lead, The Sprog and Broomstick are also well worth their stars. Although the harder routes tend to ascend relatively solid, clean slabs and faces it might be worth giving them a quick clean prior to climbing. It would be wise to exercise caution on the easier routes following the cracks and grooves, where the odd loose hold may be encountered. Belays may be required on the terrace at the bottom of the some of the routes. Some of the tops outs are on fairly steep hillside, care is needed, as is some ingenuity to fashion a decent belay. As the crag is situated some way beneath the moor edge some seepage will occur after rain.
Approach: park at the normal Dovestones car park (policed pay and display). Walk around the right side of the reservoir, past the sailing club hut. Continue through the gate and along the track until it crosses a bridge. Carry straight on up the wider rutted track trending uphill to the right. Continue up the road from here for approx 10 minutes until arriving at a gate and Charnel Clough, a stream cutting a deep gully in the hillside to your left. Follow the stream bed up for 5 minutes until a vague col can be seen on the left side, ascend to this. On the brow of the hill to the side is a triangular boulder, head towards this and trend slightly right and uphill to arrive at Charnel Stones, about 30 minutes or so.
The climbs are described from left to right, starting just to the left of the obvious hanging slab.
1. The Sorcerer's Apprentice E2 5c *, climb the rightward slanting crack and groove to the top, 35'.
2. Mickey Mouse E5 6a *, climb the hanging left arete of Temptation Crack on its right-hand side. Move left to the arete at an obvious finger/nut slot at half-height from Temptation Crack, 40'.
3. Temptation Crack HS *, climb the crack and corner on the left side of the hanging slab, 70'.
4. Sad, Tired and Old E5 6b, direct up the centre of the hanging slab, good small wires in breaks, 70'
5. The Wasteland E4 5c **, initial protection level with the base of the crack, climb the right edge of the slab, 70'.
6. The Broomstick HVS 5a **, hand jam your way up the left hand crack, 35'.
7. The Witch's Hat VS 5a **, climb the right hand crack until it is possible to stand on the pointy block, bridge upwards to finish, 35'.
8. The Coffin VS 4c, just right is a small pinnacle, the crack on the left side of this leads into a recess and thread to protect the exit, 45'.
9. Paul's Perambulation S *, the right slanting groove gives a good pitch, 40'.
10. Paul's Arete E4 6b *, the arete/facet right of Paul's Perambulation, joining it at the top of the groove, 40'.
11. Charnel Knowledge E5 6b, trend left from the crack to the right of Paul's Perambulation. Finish on top right-hand side of Paul's Arete. Side-runner on the right, 40'.
12. The Sprog E2 5c **, over to the right at a slightly higher level is an obvious slab, climb the centre until a move left to some pockets and the arete leads to the finish, 40'.
13. From the Cradle to the Grave E3 6a *, direct up the wall right of The Sprog passing the traverse on Tombstone. Long reach at the top, 35'.
14. The Tombstone VS 4c *, climb The Sprog to mid height, then traverse right and finish up Tombstone Crack, 35'.
15. Tombstone Crack VS 4b, climb the crack on the right side of the slab, 25'.
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