Bouldering
Alderman
Den Lane
Running Hill Pits
Wimberry
Oven Stones
Duck Stones
Leading
Pots and Pans
Dovestones Lower
Den Lane
Running Hill Pits
Charnel Stones
Dovestones Lower Quarry
Dovestones Lower right hand quarry shouldn't be confused with its bigger namesake up and left. The lower right quarry is a south westish facing quarry, sunny and clean with sound rock and high quality single pitch routes, including one of the 3 star classics of the area. There is some seepage after prolonged rain. Belay stakes provide anchors well back up the hillside. This is not to say that the larger, ahem, more broken quarry above does not contain interesting routes, if such is your thing.
Approach: from the main Dovestones reservoir car park (pay and display), follow the track past the sailing club hut round the right hand side of the reservoir. Cross the bridge over Chew Brook, the road continues right, whilst a tarmacked path goes left, weaving slightly up hill, follow this until a gate can be seen on the right giving access to a field, cross through this heading uphill until a gate and path can be seen leading through some trees and below the quarry. A stile can be used to cross the fence directly beneath the quarry. A different approach can be made from the Binn Green car park on the A635, below Alderman Rocks.
The climbs are described left to right.
1. ** Ace of Spades VS 5a, takes the flake crack trending left from the main face, superbly sustained laybacking, 50'.
2. * Jet Lag E5 6b, the slab and wall just right, climbed direct with a deviation at half height which reaches into Tiny Tim to place a runner, then continues direct, 60'.
3. ** Tiny Tim VS 4c, 15' to the right of Ace of Spades, climb the slab until below a thin crack, from here follow the flakes leftwards to the top, 60'.
4. *** Bob Hope E4 6a, climb the slab, as for Tiny Tim to the crack, from here climb the obvious finger crack to the top on proper finger jams, 55'.
5. ** Pedestal Route MVS 4c, climb the crack up the left side of the pedestal, from here bridge up the corner until a move right allows the hanging wall to be climbed, 45'.
6. ** Scuttlin Buttlin E7 6c, climb the alarmingly leaning arete, a technical start brings immediate exposure with good gear only inconveniently appearing after the crux, 50'.
7. ** Five Day Chimney E2 5c, climb the right side of the block to get established in the leftwards fissure, continue up this until above an old peg, where a dubious block enables a move right to be made to easier climbing, 50'.
8. Dissapointment VD, 15' right of Five Day chimney is a leftward trending groove, follow the right side of this for 30' until the wall on the left can be taken to easier climbing and on to the top, 50'.
9. Stumpy VD, 15' right of Dissapointment is a V shaped groove, 10' left of the groove it is possible to layback up to the slab, following its left edge a variety of finishes can be made, 60'.
10. Stretcher HVS 5b, layback the V shaped groove until it is possible to reach a sloper on the left, from here make a hard move up, until a slab and easier climbing reaches the top, 40'.
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