Chew Valley
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Chew Valley

Quarry 1

Quarry 1 is to be found just after you cross the first stile, immediately down the path to the right. The star attraction here is undoubtedly Calamity Crack, though most will probably opt for Gargantua. The routes are described left to right, starting on the small buttress on the left of the quarry.

Quarry 1

1. Spider Crack HVS 5c, climb the thin broken crack, just right of the arete, to finish up the crack on the right, 25'.
2. * Nora Batty E1 6a, finger jam the painful diagonal crack from left to right, move left to finish up Spider Crack, 25'.

The next route starts on the left side of the long wall.

3. Acarpous E2 5b, climb into the recess, move right to a ledge, then finish left up the diagonal crack, 40'.
4. * Maquis E1 5b, climb the jamming crack to the niche and join Acarpous to finish. A start can be made up the arete to the right, Flush Pipe at 5c. 40'.
5. * Gull Wing E2 5c, climb the steep left crack, till a move left enables flat holds and a steep groove to be reached, climb this past the roof to the by now tiring wall out right to finish, 50'.
6. Mimosa E2 5c, climb the twin cracks any which way you can, strenuous, past a wide break and over a block to finish, 50'.
7. *** Calamity Crack E4 6a, climb the obvious crack without using the wooden wedges for aid. The crack seems to unhelpfully vary between thin hand and fat finger sized. Pull with difficulty into the niche and then finish more easily, 50'.
8. ** Gargantua E1 5b, climb the crack and groove just right of Calamity to a niche, try not to be spat out of this, then pull through the small roof to another niche and a finish out right, a good steep route, 50'.
9. Godzilla E3 6a, start in the groove until it is possible to layback the right (left side) arete, a finishing span is required to reach the slab and a left exit, 40'.
10. * Kaptain Klepton E1 5c, climb the flake to the horizontal break, then the wall above moving right to finish, 40'.
11. ** Mickey Thin HVS 5a, climb to the flake, which is followed to a thin crack, continue up this to finish, 50'.
12. It Only Takes Two to Tango E2 5b, climb out of the dirty recess onto a ramp and finish using the thin cracks, 40'.
13. Tin Man E3 6b, the cracks to the right, passing a peg runner, 30'.
13. Flue Pipe E1 5c, climb the escapable hanging crack on the right of the quarry, 20'.

Quarry 1 - Quarry 2 - Quarry 5 - Quarry 6

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