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Chew Valley
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Chew Valley

Quarry 2

Quarry 2 is to be found by following the track straight on after you cross the first stile. Probably the most popular quarry amongst the Pits, quarry 2 has a sunny facing (spanner) wall on the left and a green north facing wall on the right. The routes are described left to right, starting just left of spanner wall.

Quarry 2

1. * Tighten Up Yer Nuts E4 6a, from the edge of the steep bank make a finger traverse rightwards across the face, until a difficult move brings better holds and a direct finish, 40'.
2. ** Iguanadon E6 6b, climb the groove in the blank wall. Hard initial moves gain good holds, now the trouble really begins. Make further hard (er) moves up the slim groove which relents at the top, 40'. Possibly 'safe' with a sufficient numbers of mats and spots.
3. Folies Bergeres HS 4b, climb the crack immediately right of the corner, 50'.
4. * Lolita HS 4b, climb the wall and crack just right again with an awkward start moving through the overlap, 50'.
5. * Harvest Moon E4 6b, make hard moves in to the hanging groove with the old peg, move right to another old peg and make a diffult move up to reach better holds, finish direct on better holds, 50'.
6. ** The Connection E4 6b, links up Harvest Moon and Spanner Wall, 60'.
7. ** Spanner Wall E2 5b, From Lolita traverse right to the obvious and odd spanner, thread its thin base and teeter up the the groove rightwards, 60'.
8. * Dead Dog Crack VS 4c, left hand of the wide cracks, 30'.
9. * Cave Crack VS 4c, the right hand of the two wide cracks, 30'.
10. Midsummer S 4a, the vague arete on the left of the short wall, 25'.
11. Hazy Groove VD, the groove, moving right to finish, 25'.
12. The Cracks S 4a, climb the cracks direct, 25'.
13. Breakdown HVS 5b, climb the crack in the slab, 25'.

30 feet beyond a grassy slope is an obvious leaning wall with a thin crack.

Quarry 2

14. ** Yorick's Crack E5 6c, climb the thin rightwards crack with some difficulty, some ancient pegs may protect, 40'.
15. Overhanging Chimney VS 4c, climb the obvious corner to finish rightwards, through a bulge.
16. ** Sagittarius Flake E5 6b, climb the obvious flake with a desperate move to finish, hard, very, for the grade, 40'.
17. *** Scoop de Grace E5 7a, desperate crimping sometimes allows the lower wall to be climbed direct to the scoop, which is then followed, with still difficult (though easier) moves to the top, 50'.
18. * Phaestus E4 5c, from the ledge, climb the ramp leftwards to the arete from where it is possible to mantle to easier ground, 40'.
19. * Windbreaker E2 5b, from the ramp climb the pleasent line of crimps up the vague groove, 30'.
20. * Cochybondhu E2 5c, climb the arete on the right side of the slab, 30'.

Across the grassy gully is an oddly sculpted buttress with a scooped slab.

21. Crosstie VS 5a, mantle on to the slab and follow it rightwards until a move gains the groove of the next route and a finish right, 50'.
22. Pipe Spanner E1 5c, climb the centre of the slab to a difficult finish, 30'.
23. Pipe Inspector E3 5c, climb the middle of the slab as per Pipe Spanner and make a difficult finish up the small groove, 40'.
24. * Groove V Baby VS 4c, climb the obvious red groove to a finish rightwards, 40'.

The next buttress describes the long green north facing wall on the right side of the quarry.

Quarry 2

25. * Dusty Arete, climb the wall via a series of ledges and a fixed iron bar (useful runner) to the top, 40'.
26. Midgebite Express E3 6a, climb the arete on its right hand side with gear in horizontal breaks, improbable, 50'.
27. William the Conkerer E1 5b, climb the wall just right of the dirty groove, 50'.
28. Paradise Crack HS 4b, climb the first crack in the long green wall, 50'.
29. Cameo VS 4c, climb the middle of the three cracks, 50'.
30. * The Riddler HVS 5a, right hand of the three cracks, usually quite dirty and may feel abit harder than HVS because of this, 50'.
31. * Pantagruel VS 4c, climb the pleasant parallel cracks, 50'.
32. ** Mangled Digit E3 6a, the dog leg crack is an excellent sustained route with an increasingly bendy peg (2009), 60'.
33. *** Plumb Line VS 4c, a lovely wide crack, much easier than it looks, 60'.
34. Passport to the Pits E5 6b, climb the wall right of Plumb Line, 50'.
35. Loose Women E5 6c, steep crimping to a desperate but peg protected crux, 50'.
36. ** Sodom E1 5c, climb the left hand crack which gives good sustained jamming after a hard start, 50'.
37. * Gomorrah HVS 5b, climb the right hand crack which again has a hard start but relents on decent finger jams, 50'.
38. Breakin' for a Bogey E6 6c, thin & technical to a peg protected crux, 50'.
39. Cosmic Enforcer E1 5c, from the grassy platform swing on to and climb the arete, at this grade a runner to the right makes sense, 25'.

Quarry 1 - Quarry 2 - Quarry 5 - Quarry 6

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