|
Home
Bouldering
Alderman
Den Lane
Running Hill Pits
Wimberry
Oven Stones
Duck Stones
Dick Hill
Pots and Pans
Leading
Pots and Pans
Dovestones Lower
Den Lane
Running Hill Pits
Charnel Stones
Standing Stones
Ravenstones
|

Main Face
The Main Face is the longest and highest section at the left hand side of the crag. It consists of a series of bays, walls and corners. The routes described start with Smiler's Corner. There are routes left of this but be wary there is some loose rock here as evidenced by all the debris below the crag.

1. * Smiler's Corner HS, climb the corner on the left side of the cracked wall, 50'.
2. Exodus E2 5b, a few feet to the right of the corner climb a thin crack to the grassy ledge, move right to finish up a wider crack, 50'.
3. The Boggart HVS 4c, right again a flake leads to the grassy ledge, the wide crack above is followed through the overlaps, 50'.
4. Pillar Front HVS 5a, climb the cracks in the pillar right of the Boggart, 50'.
5. Leftovers HVS 5a, in the recess to the right climb the corner to an unpleasant finish, 50'.
6. Pinocchio VS 4c, just right of Leftovers climb a thin crack to a ledge, follow the right side of the recess to finish, 50'.
7. Elegy on a Rusticpole E2 5c, climb the obvious line left of Digital Dilemma, start up Pinocchio corner, 50'.
8. Digital Dilemma E2 5c, 10' or so right of Pinocchio an obvious pillar seperates one wall from the next. This route climbs the pillar via two vague cracks to finish up the right arete, 50'.
9. Guillotine S 4b, climb the obvious corner right of the pillar, 40'.
10. ** Fallen Heroes E1 5b, climb the obvious steep winding crack in the clean face, 40'.
11. Brainchild E3 5c, gain the crack in the wall right of Fallen Heroes either direct, from up Fallen Heroes or lean in from Vivien, 40'.
12. ** Vivien S, climb the parallel cracks in the corner to the right, a fine route, 55'.
13. Prunin' the Duck E2 5c, climb the right hand arete of Vivien via a bulge, 50'.
14. * Scratchnose Crack VS 4c, climb onto a ledge below an overhanging orifice, enter the orifice and leave it with difficulty to an easier top crack...easier than it looks, 50'.
15. Papillon E1 5b, climb the thin pillar to the left of Twin Crack, gaining it from that route, 50'.
16. *** Twin Crack Corner VS 4b, a classic, one of the best VSs in Chew. Climb onto the ledges and follow (you've guessed it) the twin cracked corner with interest throughout, 50'.
17. False Prospects HVS 5a, climb the groove right of Twin Crack Corner, move right to the next route then leave it to finish direct, 55'.
18. *** Fairy Nuff VS 4c, start at the back of the deep corner and move out left under the roof to the arete. Climb up till a move right into a crack leads to the finish, 60'.
19. * Leprechauner HVS 5a, the crag gets abit greener to the right and suffers abit more seepage in this bay. Climb the obvious wide crack in the corner, 50'.
20. ** Kremlin Wall E1 5c, the upper wall just right of the corner is split by a thin crack. Climb the lower crack direct to reach the ledge. Then make crux moves to leave the ledge and finish up the easier but steep wall, 50'.
21. * Laybackadaisical HS, climb the corner underneath the large overhang, move left and up to a small ledge to finish up the wide crack above, 50'.
22. * Obyoyo HVS 5b, climb the wall beneath the large overhang. Move out right and up into the wide crack, 50'.
23. * The Trouble With Women Is... E1 5b, round to the right is a wall, climb straight up to a flake on the left hand side. Continue up via big pockets and then left to the top, 50'.
24. ** Womanless Wall VS 4b, reach the obvious flake by climbing diagonally left across the wall. Move up to the pockets where a traverse back right leads to a crack, 60'.
25. * Stuck E4 6a, climb the pebbly wall right of Womanless to a crack, from here move right to two small flakes and use these to climb up to pockets and a flake finishing just right of Womanless, 40'.
26. Unstuck E4 6a, the wall right of Stuck to join it at the twin flakes, 40'.
27. Diddley Dum Overhang HVS 5b, climb the cracks emerging from the cave on the right side of the wall, 30'.
The next routes start across the gully on the two tiered wall of the Tranquility area.
Main Face
- Tranquility area
- Left Twin Face
- Right Twin Face
|
About
Map
Topos
Gallery
Links
Contact
|